8 tricks to improve the close up picture quality
8 tricks to improve the close up picture quality | ||
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Here are the 8 tips in macro and close up photography: Your digital camera may have several automatic focus lock methods. For example, can be set to continuous autofocus (changing focus at all times up until the moment of exposure) or to "lock" at a particular focus when the shutter release is partially depressed. If you're taking photos without a tripod, you may want to use continuous autofocus to compensate for slight movements you make as you frame the photo. Locking focus at a particular point is best when you are confident that the focus you have when you press the shutter release is the focus you want for the final picture. If your subject is inanimate and you're using a tripod, consider using your digital camera's self-timer to trip the shutter after a delay of a few seconds. Even if you press the shutter release carefully, you might shake the camera a little. Under incandescent illumination with a small f-stop, your camera will probably be using a slow shutter speed that is susceptible to blurring with even a little camera shake. The self-timer will let the camera and tripod come to rest. Some digital cameras also have a socket for a remote shutter release. These can also let you keep your hands off the camera when taking a picture and have the added advantage of tripping the shutter at the exact moment you want (just before the frog takes off, for example), rather than after a delay of indeterminate length. Wait a few seconds after you hear the camera's shutter click (whether real or simulated) before doing anything, until you are sure your camera is not making a lengthy exposure or time exposure. That click might have been the shutter opening, and the camera might still be capturing the picture. Review your photo immediately on your camera's LCD display (or that big TV you set up) to check for unwanted reflections (especially those produced by flash) and other problems. The amount of image area affected is determined by the distance between the taking lens and the viewfinder, as well as the distance to your subject. If the viewfinder is directly above the camera's lens, you'll lose a little of what appears at the top of the viewfinder in your actual photo. If the viewfinder is off to the left, some of the left of your image may be cut off. With many digital cameras, the viewfinder window is both above and to the left of the taking lens, affording the opportunity of accidentally cropping your photo in two directions at once. The default danger zones apply only when your camera is being held horizontally; if you're taking a vertical photo, the area subject to parallax errors migrates along with your viewfinder. More expensive cameras might have some compensation built into the optical viewfinder; it might tilt slightly to compensate for parallax error. At the very low end, it's more common, though, to simply place guidelines in the viewfinder that show where the "safe" area is, and expect the photographer to keep the subject matter lined up properly. If you keep in mind that the correction marks in the viewfinder are only an approximation of what your camera really sees, you can usually avoid the worst parallax transgressions. Adjust on the safe side by including a little extra area around your main subject and you'll do fine. Also remember that your camera's built-in electronic flash suffers from parallax error, too. At very close distances, the flash will probably not illuminate the lower part of your subject. I am often able to fix this by placing a small white card out of the picture area but located to bounce some of the flash illumination down onto the subject. | ||